Monday, October 3, 2011

San Jose, Costa Rica

San José

Few get to know San José, bypassing the capital en route to Costa Rica's jungles, cloud forests and smoldering volcanoes. That's a shame. Granted, the sprawling metropolis is no classic beauty, but if you linger you'll discover its Latin spirit while haggling in the bustling Mercado Central, partying with Ticos in El Pueblo and tucking into gallo pinto (beans and rice) in a down-to-earth soda (diner). Behind the urban chaos lies Barrio Amón's colonial architecture, and beyond the city lie lush green mountains beckoning you outdoors.

Things to Do

Get an overview of Costa Rican history in the National Museum and learn about pre-Colombian art and culture in the Jade Museum. A leisurely saunter around Barrio Amón past restored cafetaleros (coffee baron mansions) transports you back to colonial times. Ticos seeking shade, fresh air and exercise head to lagoon-dotted Parque La Sabana. Glance up at the nearby volcanic mountains, visible from almost any street, and you'll be itching to go white-water rafting or hike through a cloud forest.

Shopping

Wake up and smell the coffee roasting as you wander the streets near the mazy Mercado Central. Sip a milky café con leche before browsing the stalls for fresh produce, top-quality coffee beans or cheap hammocks. Colonial-era Barrio Amón is dotted with gallery-style boutiques selling Costa Rican crafts and souvenirs, and pedestrianised Avenida Central boasts finer wares. For indigenous Costa Rican art from jade replicas to tribal masks and basketwork, head to downtown Galería Namu.

Nightlife and Entertainment

Ticos live for the weekend fiesta when the city swings (and sweats) to bands playing salsa and merengue. El Pueblo, an entertainment complex reminiscent of an old Spanish village, harbors upbeat Latino bars and clubs with packed dance floors. Or join a young crowd to bar-hop the DJ lounges, pubs and live-music venues in San Pedro and Los Yoses. The rich and beautiful sip cocktails in Escazú as San José twinkles below.

Restaurants and Dining

Savor the simple things in San José -- from ripe mangoes sold on almost every street corner to morning churros (doughnuts) served with thick chocolate on Avenida Central. The Mercado Central's cheap and cheerful sodas (diners) dish up filling gallo pinto (beans and rice), plump tamales and refreshing frescos (fruit smoothies). Wine and dine on imaginative fusion cuisine in Escazú, where fashionable restaurants afford sweeping city views, or seek out international fare in Barrio Amón's converted Spanish mansions.

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